Charles Heintz 2013 Madison Hailey Blanc de Blancs

The notes from our distributor say all that can be said. Here's the email he sent me about this wine:

You know of Michael Cruse's Ultramarine "Heintz Vineyard" Blanc de Blancs as California's first cult sparkling wine, right? To this day it remains (by far) the most noteworthy example in the category produced in the United States, continues to be extremely difficult to source, and with a $200+ price tag at most retailers, remains out of reach for most wine lovers.

Imagine the shock/confusion/delight on my face when a sample bottle of this wine appeard from our new Los Angeles-based employee on our sales team.

...the front label reads Heintz Vineyard.

...the back label reads Michael Cruse as winemaker.

...the vintage is 2013.

...the physical bottle was that same iconic/curved one that we associate with "Ultramarine"

...the post-it note on the bottle reads "Michael recently disgorged this after nine years on the lees."

HUH?!? - It is time to call Bryan.

"What the hell is this?" I asked, "there is only one Michael Cruse Ultramarine 'Heintz Vineyard.'"

"Oh", Bryan casually explains, "Michael Cruse makes Ultramarine Heintz Vineyard from the second pressing, preferring its character to that of the first and third pressings....but the first and third pressings are also pretty great."

"So this is from...." I ask.

"...yes this is from Michael's first and third pressings, since he is only using the second pressing for Ultramarine" Bryan continues, "he makes the wine for my friend Charlie Heintz who grows Michael's grapes, and always one to push boundaries, we suppose Michael kept this gem in tirage for the last nine years as an experiment as to how far the boundaries could be pushed."

Pop goes the cork.

Wow.

Out of the glass leaps everything you expect and then some. Golden color, honey, apple, and toasty filbert on the nose, followed by layer after layer of flavor (think custard, brioche, pear, baking spice, yuzu, I can go on and on...), with tremendous liveliness and energy (especially notable given the eleven-year-age!) on what one can describe as a perfect-texture palate. The trademark firm acidity that Cruse is celebrated for holds all components together in what is one of the most compelling sparkling wines I've tasted in a very, very long time...