Alain Geoffroy 2022 Petit Chablis Vieilles Vignes
Alain Geoffroy 2022 Petit Chablis Vieilles Vignes
The Wine
You'd have to look far and wide to find a better wine than this reasonably-priced Chablis. Located at Burgundy’s northernmost tip and the coolest of its four Departments (it's actually closer to Champagne than Burgundy!) it is isolated from the rest of Burgundy by a good 60-mile stretch of highway. The wines of Chablis are notable for their crispness which often leads a taster down the path of Sauvignon Blanc or other crisp white wines.Sadly, the high scores given oaked Chardonnay, and the higher prices that accompany them, have proven more enticing than Chablis’ great traditions, and today over half of Chablis spends time in oak barrels.
The Winery
Alain Geoffroy is the great-grandson of the winery’s founder, Honoré, who planted the 50-hectare (123 acres) estate in 1850. The vines have been replaced since then, of course, though the grapes for this “old vine” wine are from vines spanning 20-40 years of age. And his wine is firmly planted in Chablis tradition, having been fermented in neutral oak. This traditional old-barrel fermentation adds an extra richness and depth of flavor, and the yeasty richness that comes from stirred lees brings another layer of complexity to this wine.
Add to these the intensity of flavor common to wines from old vines and you get a broader palate and longer finish than its more “snap-and-crackle” unoaked siblings.
Tasting: Pale gold with a greenish tint, this wine offers an experience that begins with flowers and segues into tropical fruits and the minerality for which Chablis’ wines are appreciated world-wide. Perhaps I also loved this wine at first sip because it resonated with my personal history, weighing in at the 12.5% alcohol that was the average for CA wines when I was cutting my teeth, some decades ago. Call me an old vine if you must, as long as you agree this is a great wine at a value price.
Suggested Pairings
- - Oysters, oysters, oysters!
- - Scrambled eggs with asparagus tips
- - Salmon with dill sauce
- - Shoulder of lamp spiked with lavender
- - Soft cheeses
- - Pork and Andouille stew (click here for recipe!)
Cheers!
Dave "the Wine Merchant"